What refurbishing is and when it pays
A cracked iPhone screen is usually a cracked piece of glass on top of a working OLED or LCD panel. Refurbishing replaces only that glass, so the original panel, with its original colours, brightness and touch, goes back into service as a Refurbished Original screen. The economics work when you have volume: the consumables per screen are cheap, but the equipment and the learning curve are not. A shop doing fewer than ten screens a week is usually better off buying finished Refurbished Original screens from iPhone Parts; a shop doing fifty should refurbish. Consumables per model are in iPhone Screen Refurbishing and equipment in Refurbishing Supplies.
Equipment list
- Screen separator with heated plate (QianLi PM361 or PM89 class) or a wire separator for OLED.
- Frame separation jig and a cold press for refitting frames.
- OCA laminating machine with vacuum, plus an autoclave (bubble remover).
- Laminating molds and frame-holding molds cut for each model.
- Electric OCA glue remover, cleaning solution, dust-free box, dust detection lamp (QianLi iSee 2 class), UV lamp for frame adhesive.
- A screen tester such as the JCID V15PM to check the panel before and after.
Step 1: test and separate
- Test the panel first. A screen with lines, a dead zone in touch, or burn-in is not worth reglassing. Fail it now, not after an hour of work.
- Remove the frame. On OLED models the frame is glued to the panel edge; heat on the separator at about 80 °C, cut the adhesive with a blade along the frame, and lift. A bent frame is replaced with a new Display Frame (Bezel) with adhesive; a straight one is cleaned and reused.
- Separate the glass. For OLED (X and later except XR and 11) use a fine wire at low temperature, keeping the wire flat; the panel is 0.1 mm from the glass, and a wire that dips cuts the polarizer. For LCD (7, 8, XR, 11, SE) the gap is larger, and a heated plate with a blade or wire works.
Step 2: clean the OCA and the polarizer
The old OCA stays on the polarizer after the glass is gone. Remove it with an electric OCA remover (a rotating silicone wheel) at low speed, then finish with OCA remover solution and a lint-free wipe. The polarizer under it is what gives the panel its contrast: scratch it and the screen shows a visible haze or a rainbow pattern. If the polarizer is damaged, the options are to replace the polarizer film separately, or to use glass with OCA and polarizer already attached, which is why we stock that variant from G+OCA Pro for most OLED models.
Step 3: glass with OCA and lamination
- Choose the glass. All three brands we carry, Feaglet, Musttby and G+OCA Pro, come with the OCA film already on the glass. Match the glass to the exact model and to the laminating mold; 12 and 12 Pro share one glass, 13 and 13 Pro share another, but 14 Pro and 15 Pro do not.
- Put the panel in the laminating mold, peel the OCA liner inside the dust-free box, and check both surfaces with the dust lamp. A single hair makes a visible bubble that no autoclave removes.
- Align the glass over the panel in the mold and laminate under vacuum at the machine’s recommended pressure and time, typically 10 to 20 seconds.
- Run the autoclave: pressure and gentle heat dissolve small bubbles into the OCA. Edge bubbles usually clear; a bubble over the centre with a visible speck in it is dust and means separating again.
Step 4: frame and finish
- Fit the frame in the frame-holding mold, apply frame adhesive (a slow-cure polyurethane such as JCID SP16 or a pre-cut frame adhesive), seat the laminated panel and cold press for the time the adhesive needs. Mold sets per model are in the refurbishing category.
- Refit the earpiece speaker mesh and any brackets. Apply a factory film to the glass.
- Test on the screen tester: touch over the whole area, colour uniformity, True Tone data still present, and a white screen for dust and newton rings.
Common defects and causes
| Defect | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bubble with a speck inside | Dust between OCA and panel | Separate, clean, relaminate; improve dust box discipline |
| Bubbles at the edge only | Low lamination pressure or short autoclave | Longer autoclave cycle; check pressure |
| Rainbow pattern or haze | Polarizer scratched during OCA removal | Replace polarizer or use glass with polarizer |
| Glass sits off-centre | Wrong mold or glass for the model | Confirm the mold set and brand fit |
| Touch dead in a strip | Panel flex damaged during separation or heat too high | Panel is lost; lower temperature next time |
| Frame gap or lifted corner | Bent frame reused, or adhesive not cured | New frame; full cold press time |
Honest notes
A refurbished screen is still an original panel, and that is its selling point; but the glass, the oleophobic coating and the frame adhesive are aftermarket. True Tone data stays on the panel’s chip, so no programmer is needed. The screen will still trigger the Unknown Part note on iPhone 11 and later when it goes into a different phone than it came from. Keep heat below 90 °C on OLED at every stage; the panel does not forgive more.
FAQ
Which models are hardest to refurbish?
The OLED models with curved edges and thin polarizers: 12 mini, 13 mini and the Pro Max sizes. LCD models (XR, 11, SE) are the easiest to start with.
Can I reglass Hard OLED or Incell aftermarket screens?
Technically yes, but the panel cost is low enough that it rarely pays. Refurbishing is for original panels.
Why do I get bubbles after a clean lamination?
Usually dust from the liner or the air in the room, or a lamination pressure that was set for a different glass thickness. Check the dust box first.
Do I need a different laminating mold for every model?
Yes, with the exceptions noted above where two models share one glass. The mold defines alignment and the pressure area.
Which glass brand should I start with?
Pick one brand, buy a 10-pack for your highest-volume model, and test fit with your molds. Keep a second brand for models the first does not cover.