Three ways to fix a cracked back
Every iPhone from the 8 onward has a glass back, and from iPhone 12 the glass is bonded to the frame with an adhesive that does not give up without a fight. A shop has three options, and the right one depends on volume and on the model:
- Laser separation: a fibre laser burns the adhesive and the ink layer under the glass so the fragments lift off. Fast and clean, but the machine costs as much as a used car and needs extraction.
- Manual removal: heat, a blade and patience. No capital cost, 40 to 90 minutes per phone, and a real risk of scratching the frame or puncturing the battery.
- Back housing swap: move the logic board, battery, cameras and all small parts into a new housing with the glass already attached. Longest job, but the result is a new frame and new glass in one go, and it is the only option on models where the glass surrounds a camera plateau that cannot be relaminated cleanly.
Glass-only parts and complete housings are listed per model in iPhone Parts, for example iPhone 14 Pro.
Which back glass to order
| Part | What it includes | When to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Back Glass | Glass with the standard camera cut-out, adhesive pre-applied on most models | Camera lens bezel and lens glass are intact and will be refitted |
| Back Glass (Big Camera Hole) | Glass with a large opening around the camera plateau | Laser or manual removal leaves the camera glass and bezel in place; the new glass fits around them. Faster, and the camera area never has to be disturbed |
| Back Glass with Camera Lens | Glass with the camera lens glass and bezel already fitted | Camera lens is cracked too, or the plateau was removed |
| Back Housing (US / EU version) | Complete frame with glass, buttons and small parts pre-installed | Frame bent, many fragments, or shop prefers one long job over glass work. US version has no SIM tray on iPhone 14 and later |
The Big Camera Hole version is what most laser shops use. Its only downside is a visible seam around the camera plateau on close inspection; tell the customer, and show them a finished example.
Laser method
- Strip the phone to the housing: remove the screen, battery, logic board, cameras, Taptic Engine, loudspeaker and the wireless charging coil. On iPhone 14 and later non-Pro models the back glass opens like a door and the board can stay in place; on everything else, strip it.
- Place the housing in the laser jig with the camera plateau masked. Run the manufacturer’s pattern for the model at the recommended power; a first pass removes the ink, a second pass burns the adhesive.
- Lift the glass with a blade from the corners. Remaining shards come away with a second low-power pass or a blade and alcohol.
- Clean the frame step with alcohol and a plastic blade until no adhesive remains, then wipe the inside of the frame; laser residue is conductive dust and must not reach the board.
Laser is the only practical way to do Pro models from 13 Pro onward at volume; the frosted glass is thicker, and the adhesive is applied over a larger area.
Manual method
- Strip the phone as above. The battery must be out of the frame; heat on the back with the battery inside is where fires start.
- Heat the back on a heating platform at 80 to 90 °C for five minutes. Cover the glass with packing tape so shards stay together.
- Start at a corner with a thin steel blade, angled towards the glass and away from the frame. Work in small lifts; re-heat every few minutes.
- Expect the wireless charging coil and the flash flex to be glued to the inside of the glass on 8 through 11; peel them with alcohol before they tear.
- Clean the frame of adhesive and ink. This step takes as long as the removal.
Fitting the new glass
- Dry-fit the glass. Check that the camera cut-out clears the bezel, and that the flash window and microphone hole line up.
- Apply back glass adhesive if the part does not have it pre-applied, or add a thin bead of a slow-curing polyurethane adhesive such as the JCID TP-series along the frame step. Keep it away from the antenna lines.
- Press the glass on, align from the camera side first, and clamp or weigh the phone face-down on a flat surface for the time the adhesive needs; most need 12 hours before the phone is handled roughly.
- Reassemble and test wireless charging, flash, rear microphone and cellular signal before closing the front.
Adhesives and heating platforms are in Tapes & Adhesives and Tools & Equipment.
Housing swap in short
A back housing with small parts pre-installed includes the buttons, SIM tray (EU version), power and volume flexes and the wireless charging coil on most listings. You transfer the board, battery, cameras, speakers, Taptic Engine and screen. The time is in re-routing flex cables and antenna cables; keep the old housing next to you as a map. Match the version: a US-version housing has no SIM slot on iPhone 14 and later and cannot be made to take a SIM.
Safety
- Never apply heat, laser or a blade to the back with the battery inside. Remove it.
- Wear eye protection with tempered glass; shards fly when a crack propagates.
- Laser work needs fume extraction and a closed enclosure; the ink and adhesive smoke is not something to breathe.
FAQ
Can I replace the back glass without removing the logic board?
Only on iPhone 14, 14 Plus, 15, 15 Plus and the 16 series, where the back glass is a removable panel. On all other models the board and battery must come out, for safety and for a clean adhesive bed.
What is the difference between Big Camera Hole and standard glass?
Big Hole glass fits around the camera plateau that stays on the frame; standard glass has the original small cut-out and requires the camera lens and bezel to be moved onto it.
Will the new glass be water resistant?
Not to the original rating. A good adhesive job resists splashes; that is all we claim.
How long does a manual replacement take?
From 40 minutes on an iPhone 8 to well over an hour on a 13 Pro Max. With a laser, 15 to 25 minutes plus teardown and reassembly.
Does a back housing come with the glass?
Yes. A back housing is the frame with the glass already bonded, plus the small parts listed in the product description.